ride me

NASCAR Nation and the Bicycle

2007-06-19T16:14:00.000-07:00

Let’s face it as a national group we’re in a hurry. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration ranks speeding as the single largest contributing factor to auto-related fatalities in the US today. Everyone is a race-car driver; it’s a NASCAR Nation!
The mentality that we all must go faster is quickly creeping in to the social fabric of transportation. You can easily see it on the arterial streets of Portland. I even see it on the so- called residential neighborhood streets where the speed limit (at least in Portland) rarely, exceeds 25 mph. It’s not uncommon to witness folks driving through these areas at speeds of 40mph or faster.
It’s not just the cars that are going faster either. Bicyclists are getting in on the fun too. No doubt when you combine the bicycle with this NASCAR mentality it is inevitable there will be problems. Stop at any major bike route intersection around the city and take a look for yourself. Track bikes, Race frames, drop bars, Aero Rims, Titanium this and that, LYCRA, muscles twitching. Suddenly, the light turns green, and they’re off…like a shot, everyone going as fast as possible as if we’re all in some race and I forgot to get my bib number. Darn, I knew there was something I needed to do.
It’s understandable that we want to distance ourselves from those cars sitting at the same stoplight. After all we have to compete with them for the same space. But in reality we will never be able to out run them. No matter how much Lycra and Titanium you have they’re going to catch you, and then pass you at most likely an increasingly higher rate of speed.
So how should we behave in the poorly integrated bike/car traffic patterns of the Good ol’ US of A? Yes even in the ‘bikers paradise’ of Portland it still could be better, a lot better in my opinion. The fact is the pace of traffic need to be changed along with the mentality of those on the road. I’ve made more of an effort to remedy this in the past year. Slow down. That’s my mantra. It’s as simple as that. Slower is safer. Slower is more relaxing, less sweaty ( ewww!) and slower is nicer to those around you. Where do I see myself going with this attitude? I’m not entirely sure, but at least it will be at a leisurely pace.

Continuous and Integral

2007-06-15T22:38:00.000-07:00

An interesting article on Groningen, Netherlands and how they have woven their bicycle infrastructure into the fabric of the city. Over 57% of all trips are made by bicycle in this student town in the North of the Netherlands. Even in the Netherlands, Groningen is a shining example of bike-ablity.
Josh Hart has posted a first person observation of the city on his Car Free Blog "On the Level". In his post Josh says "By prioritizing cycle traffic over cars, the Dutch engineers have managed to balance the roadway’s playing field and allow a blossoming of bicycle transport as a practical network useable by just about everyone. " The city planners in Groningen have been able to achieve this through what they call a system that is "continuous and integral". Josh reports that many of the problems we have come to expect are being addressed. He says the city treats cyclists with respect– they create a network of cycling lanes and paths that never just end suddenly, as is common in the US. There are entire housing developments that are built along major bicycle and scooter “roadways,” massive bike parks everywhere, many roads that are one way for cars but two way for bikes, and special signal phases for bikes.
We all know that the Dutch are light years ahead of the US when it comes to bike planning, but this article is inspiring. Imagine living in a community based around bike transit...sounds like heaven

Omafiets, not just for Granny anymore.

2007-06-14T11:50:00.000-07:00

I think the term Omafiets, Dutch for “Granny bike”, tends to make most men cringe a bit. The thought of riding a woman’s bike, let alone an upright bike, seems to be far from the mindset of most men pedaling around PDX, or the US in general.
But why?
Are we really so insecure in our manhood that a woman’s bike somehow challenges our masculine cycling ego?
Is it simply the “Granny” designation? Perhaps it’s the mental image of an old, wrinkly Granny riding along at a slower than usual pace seems less than hard-core.
Hmmm…
Interesting.

Let’s look at the facts:
Step through frame =Easier to mount and dismount; casually stylish as well. Also, you don’t need special clothes or shoes. Just step on and ride away.
Upright riding position = Better view of your surroundings and more visible to auto traffic.
Easier pace than a Roadie = Take some time to enjoy where you are and where your going. It’s not a race. What’s the hurry anyway?
Nerd Factor = Isn’t it hip to be Nerdy these days? Most of the hipster crowd (myself included) seems to gravitate toward the ‘faux nerd’ look anyway. This bike fits perfectly.

I love pedaling my Omafiets around town. I ride it almost exclusively.
As more of these bikes hit the street, I am surprised that more men aren't riding them. The Electra Amsterdam on sale everywhere, and the Azor at Clevercycles are two great examples of the Omafiets. The Dutch, current purveyors of this style of bike, see most all teen boys and young men choosing the Omafiets for their preferred city ride. Mainly for the reasons listed above. Some even ride a pretty mean wheelie on them.

I spend a lot of time in alleys...

2007-06-12T19:00:00.000-07:00

That is, riding thru alleys. Not sleeping or rooting through trash cans. I think of the alleys as my own quiet thoroughfare that gets me off the beaten path, so to speak. One in particular, the alley behind Ladd's Avenue, is my favorite. I ride this way every day to and from work. It's quiet, it's scenic and its convenient. Today I had company. It's not unusual to see someone else, however; more often than not they are pushing a shopping cart full of their worldly belongings. Today there were other commuters using my alley!
Has my oasis in the city been discovered?
Was it just a coincidence?
It seems those of us who have abandoned the car full-time seem to share a secret. The secret that biking from point A to B is the best way to get around. Maybe it's not the fastest, maybe not always the easiest, but in the long-run it's the best. It's slower than a car. That allows time to take in the little things, like the birds chirping, or the smell of spring flowers. Not as easy as a car. It requires my direct physical participation. Exercise, that's a good thing. These things make it the best way to travel.
Inside these secrets of transportation biking I thought I'd found my own secret: The Alleyways of Portland. I guess there are others who share my secret, and that's a good thing too.
See you off the beaten path...

Willamette Greenway Trail

2007-06-03T21:32:00.000-07:00

Last Saturday after a brief stop by the Rose Festival at the Waterfront, Carolyn and I rode south to check out the Willamette Greenway Trail. I have to admit I have never been on this section of trail and I was impressed. I had a smile on my face the entire ride. This trail is quite a contrast to the Springwater. Low traffic, residential settings, and well integrated with the other non-bike areas that it intersects. The online description of the trail says it starts at the Macadam Bay Club, but with the nice wide bike lane leading from the Hawthorne Bridge through the South Waterfront and beneath the Tram it's a bit like a trip through the future of Portland leading to the "official trailhead." At this point the trail leads 3 miles to the Sellwood bridge. The trail is a nice 8 ft wide cruiser that winds along the river through Willamette Park and along the Willamette Yacht Club. Where we stopped to watch some kids taking a Sailing class. When your passing the Yacht Club be careful as there were quite a few boaters loading and unloading Kayaks, Sunfish and the like. I actually had I guy say "thank you" to me for ringing my bell as he started walking front of me from behind a parked SUV. When we got to the Sellwood Bridge I wanted to follow the 'unofficial' dirt trail that leads on South from there but since we were both riding on Vintage Tires ( read Old, dry-rotted) we decided that we had best point it East across the river.
Portland really is the best biking city in America. Now go out and get some!

Copenhagen leading the charge!

2007-05-31T17:03:00.000-07:00

We all love Amsterdam, sure.

There's Hookers, Hash and Heineken a plenty, and oh yeah, a pretty fabulous cycling culture throughout the entire country as well.

What about their Scandinavian cousins to the north?

You know, the Danish..?

It seems the Danes have taken a pretty big bite out of the cycle culture pie as well. With the goal of becoming "the best cycling city in the world" Copenhagen's Mayor Klaus Bondam just put forth a proposal that would make even the most ardent Dutch cyclist take a second glance.

On May 30th Mayor Bondam presented the Copenhagen Bicycle Proposal which for DKK 75 million ( $13.5 million US) will make it more fun to ride a bicycle and hopefully also tempt more people to use their bicycles.

"The more people bicycling and the more people who will stop using their cars every day, the more we will contribute to lower the CO2 emission. 14 per cent more cyclists will contribute to 80,000 less CO2 emission. The number of accidents in Copenhagen is not high, however, it is still our ambition to half the number of accidents on bicycles, because if you feel safe, you will also feel like riding your bike" , says Mayor Bondam.

It's refreshing to hear a politician talking about ACTUALLY changing our behavior as way to curb emissions. I think that the already cycle-savy Danes will also benefit from increased health and a connection to the community as well.

I'd like to issue a challenge to our State and Local leaders to follow Mayor Bondam's lead. Take a look at our fair Rose City, we're pretty cycle friendly, but I think we could do more by simply driving less.

C'mon Mayor Potter, Commissioner Adams and all the others down there at City Hall. Stop pandering to the car! Forget about " Auto-Couplets", increased Parking and Freeways.

Those things are Dinosaurs, man.

Ride free.

Clever Cycles nears opening day

2007-05-30T21:40:00.000-07:00

Today on my ride home I happened to stop by Clever Cycles and talk with Todd. As we talked he showed me around the shop and subterranean vault of Oma and Bakfietsen they have to offer. The shop will have a 'soft opening' on June 1 with a Grand Opening coming later.
I for one cannot wait to see the impact these bikes will have on the cycling landscape of Portland.
Good luck Clever Cycles...!

What are YOU doing in the middle of the street...?

2007-05-30T21:14:00.000-07:00

I have to admit when I first heard those words, I was slightly surprised. This morning as I rode to work, while in the middle of the left-hand lane on SW Oak, I looked over to my right and there was an angry motorist intentionally moving toward me, forcing me into the parked cars, while shrieking for me to "get on the sidewalk..." The ensuing interaction is not worth noting word for word. Suffice it to say she felt that bikes not only have no right to be on the street, but my safety was not worthy of consideration. After she informed me that she would " run me down in a second..." I felt it best to move aside and let her get on her way.
Recently, I read comments on the bikeportland.org forum to a similar effect. It seems the author was confronted by a person who felt cyclists are not allowed on the streets...
How is it possible in a city like Portland that folks truly believe bikes no longer belong on the street?

What DOES it take to be Bike Friendly..?

2007-05-21T10:18:00.000-07:00

A recent article by Alan Durning on the Sightline Institute blog asks that very question.
I think there are some very good points made in the article and in readers comments. Primarily it is the perception of rider's safety that is limiting more ridership.
How do we change that perception you ask?
Good question.
As I've said before I think the root is creating a network of separated bikeways and providing for "bike first" right of way laws. I know there are folks who don't agree with that. Even folks who would consider themselves pro-bike fear that removing bikes from the street traffic somehow diminishes our rights as cyclists. Face it, if you expect to live without cars then we need to be safe. If you continue to share driving space with the motorists YOU WILL BE IN DANGER at least at some point.
Separate but equal.

World's First Car-Free City

2007-05-17T10:57:00.000-07:00

The UK Architecture firm Foster and Partners has announced that the walled city of Masdar in Abu Dhabi, being designed by the firm, will be the world's first zero-carbon, zero-waste city.

Unveiled on May 8th at the Cityscape conference in Abu Dhabi, Foster + Partners said Masdar would be a dense, walled development constructed in two stages. The first phase would see the construction of a large photovoltaic power plant, which would later become the site for the second phase.

The surrounding land will contain wind, photovoltaic farms, research fields and plantations, so that the city will be entirely self-sustaining, the architect said.

The development is set to open in late 2009.

Ride of silence

2007-05-16T20:28:00.000-07:00

Around the World today the Ride of Silence honors the memory of those who have been killed or injured while cycling on roadways. In Portland there were rides on the East and West sides this evening at 7 pm.

Raliegh Superbe

2007-05-16T20:17:00.000-07:00

I just got my UK issue Raleigh Superbe. Based on the serial # I think it's a '78 model. I love these old English 3 speeds.Built to last and super retro-cool. It will take me a few weeks to restore it to gleaming condition, but when I do... LOOK OUT!
All I need now is a tweed jacket and a pipe... tally-ho.

Get Dustin a NEW Bike

2007-05-16T14:41:00.000-07:00

Let's pool together and Dustin Kent a new bike. Bikeportland.org just reported about Dustin's near death experience on the I-205 bridge bike path last week as a NISSAN PICK UP attempted to run him down. The end result was a crushed bike and fairly shaken cyclist.
If you can help out leave your name, email and amount you can contribute in the comments and I will contact you to let you know where to send your support
Thanks to Jonathon at bikeportland.org for bringing this to the community's attention.

Bike to Work Week- May 14-20

2007-05-16T09:07:00.000-07:00

This week is Bike to Work Week with events in Portland starting Wednesday the 16th with the Bike to Work Breakfast.
Get out, ride your bike, and encourage a co-worker, friend or relative to do the same.

On yer Left...!

2007-05-15T09:31:00.000-07:00

I have to say, when I hear " ON YER LEFT..." barked at me from behind, it startles me. It seems that using a bell is a much better way to warn someone that a cyclist is about to overtake them. Recent discussions on the bikeportland.org forums show that the community is mixed in it's feeling as to whether bells or barking are the preferred measure of warning.

Vote one for bells here. Jing-Jing...

That's why I was glad to see there will be a new program, called "Bells on Bridges" organized by Margaret Weddell of the CCC to distribute and install FREE bike bells, courtesy of Bike Gallery, on the Westbound side of the Hawthorne Bridge starting Thursday 5/15 from 7:15 - 8:30, along with coffee and goodies.

Stop by get a free bell and leaving the barking to the dogs.

Ouch, I think a truck ran over my head

2007-05-14T15:28:00.000-07:00

Ryan Lipscomb a college student at the University of Wisconsin was recently run over while riding his bike along the East Isthmus Bike Path in Madison, Wisc.
He flipped his bike at an intersection and an oncoming Delivery Truck RAN OVER HIS HEAD. You might think that is a blog-worthy incident right there, until you hear HE WASN'T HURT, except for a mild concussion. His helmet, a Giro, was crushed, but Lipscomb's head was fine.
"I didn't see it coming, but I sure felt it roll over my head. It feels really strange to have a truck run over your head", said Lipscomb after being released from the hospital.
Ouch!

Bike helmets inspire unsafe driving

2007-05-13T17:18:00.000-07:00

There always seems to be a debate about wearing helmets. Most folks in the US, and definitely here in Portland, wear a helmet while riding a bike. As a matter of fact if you’re under 16 in the state of Oregon you’re required by law to wear a helmet. In Denmark and the Netherlands where cycling infrastructure is much more evolved than here, no one ever wears one.
Scientific American.com recently posted an article about Ian Walker, a psychologist in Bath, England, where he rode his bike around either helmeted or naked-headed to gauge how motorists behave in both situations. Ian had heard several complaints from fellow riders that wearing a helmet seemed to result in bike riders receiving far less room to maneuver—effectively increasing the chances of an accident. So, Walker attached ultrasonic sensors to his bike and rode around Bath. After being overtaken by more than 2300 cars he found that helmeted cyclists inspire more dangerous driving from the cars around them, while bareheaded cyclists are treated with greater respect.

His findings, published in the March 2007 issue of Accident Analysis & Prevention, state that when Walker wore a helmet drivers typically drove an average of 3.35 inches closer to his bike than when his noggin wasn't covered. But, if he wore a wig of long, brown locks—appearing to be a woman from behind—he was granted 2.2 inches more room to ride

"The implication," Walker says, "is that any protection helmets give is canceled out by other mechanisms, such as riders possibly taking more risks and/or changes in how other road users behave towards cyclists." Walker, whose much-publicized report may inspire a new generation of bareheaded riders, won't make any specific recommendations to other cyclists though he notes that when it comes to riding in traffic, motorists are the real problem. "If people read the research and decide a helmet makes them safer, they should wear one; if they read the research and decide it doesn't, perhaps they don't need to," Walker says, adding the caveat, "But they do need to read the research!" And watch out for cars.

To be... Car Free

2007-05-02T17:29:00.000-07:00

There are more car free sections added to cities every day. I love it when I read something like this.
The Christina Science Monitor recently posted an article about the emergance of car free days in sections of cities from San Fransisco to Bogata, Columbia. "Cities across America are increasingly declaring that parks are for people, not cars, ... and closing roads within parks is one result of that," says Ben Welle with The Trust for Public Land's Center for City Park Excellence, in Washington. Resistance can be fierce at first, he and others say, because of worries about traffic congestion, parking problems, and loss of visitors for businesses and museums. But studies are showing that traffic problems can be minimized, shops and museums get more visitors, and residents begin to cherish their where-the-action-is location.

Across the world, this is a trend that is growing. You may remember my post last winter about the Lyon Protocol. Building sections of the city to be car free, Lyon is leading the world in car free living. In Bogotá, Colombia, which in 1983 embarked on a program called ciclovia (bike path), in which designated streets were closed to cars every Sunday but open for jogging, biking, dancing, playing ball, walking pets, strolling with babies – anything but driving. One-and-a-half million people now turn out each week for ciclovia. Other cities in Latin America followed suit, closing parts of parks or whole urban districts to cars – some intermittently, some permanently. A result: revitalized neighborhoods and an influx of people.

Even El Paso, Texas is getting in on the car free game. The El Paso Times reports that their weekly ciclovia participants proved that residents of the city are willing to support a safe and healthy activity that brings people together as a community, El Paso Mayor John Cook said.

I hope that Portland will begin to follow these leads. There has been a lot of talk lately on bikeportland.org about Portland's effort to become a platinum level cycling city. I think this is just the type of event to propel us into platinum status.

Lyon Protocol

2007-02-07T18:34:00.000-08:00

Car free cities. Sounds like a dream, but more and more it's becoming a reality. Although no major cities are 100% car free there are some who have devoted large portions of the center and in some cases created car free zones through out the entire city. Using Lyon, France as the model, The Lyon Protocol sets a very lofty goal: converting large districts to carfree areas.
The Lyon Protocol defines multi step strategy for reaching consensus on how to design and implement such a radical change, involving community input, media relations and political will. The goal is to give the city back to residents by reducing the domination of the automobile and to create a strong local identity.

Strong local identity?
Community involvement?
Sounds like P-town...!

Kyoto accord

2007-02-07T18:28:00.000-08:00

An interesting article from the BBC. It is refreshing to see at least Europe has taken the Kyoto accord seriously. Why can't our own leaders here in the US begin to recognize these regulations as global will ?

Bike Date

2007-02-03T14:29:00.000-08:00

For the last few weeks Carolyn and I have been going on 'bike dates'. We go out on the town on a Friday evening, on a 'date' via bike. Our objectives are have fun, socialize and travel at a casual pace. Last night we hit a couple local spots on the Eastside. What a great evening for a bike date. The moon was full and the weather has been stellar!
Heading down the Clinton bike route we zipped thru the intersection at 7 corners and both instinctively began heading down Ladd Avenue, toward work...Ooops! A quick right put us on 20th and back on track. We took the tourist route toward Hawthorne weaving thru the back streets. We met some friends at Imbibe, laughed about the old days living in the dorms and enjoyed some fine tunes ala Little Sue. After the music had wound down about 9 o'clock, Carolyn and I jumped on our trusty rides and peddled off to Belmont to check out 'the Blue Monk'. We both love this place. Belgian Beers out the wazooo, live Jazz music and great food. We sampled a little of all 3.
The great thing about bike dating is the relative freedom it offers. It's a chance to slow down on the bike and plod along. Something I think we all forget to do sometimes. I know in the mornings headed downtown, I'm like everyone else. How fast can I hammer to the office...? On a bike date it's just You and your Sweety cruising thru the neighborhoods, enjoying a pleasantly casual pace, maybe you stop to look at something in a store window, check out that really sweet house for sale, or change direction mid-trip. We really enjoy these dates. For us it's all about meandering to get to our destination. Especially when the weather is as nice as it has been the past couple weeks.
I'd like to see more folks out on bike dates. Maybe we could start a bike date Friday or something. Encourage pubs/resturants to offer incentives for Bike Daters to come to there establishments one Friday night a month. Just a thought.

No Parking

2007-02-03T14:26:00.000-08:00

I am curious where we are headed with our bike lane/bike route infrastructure. Portland is a GREAT place to travel by bike. To work, school, down to the store, where ever... Recent articles on BikePortland about the "interested but concerned" demographic & "concerns about the crossing"; as well as my recent experience living in the Netherlands for most of the past year, have me thinking about our infrastructure.
My thought is that we remove parking along bike path/bike routes and give that space to 'Dutch style' bike lanes. It would seem the best way to truly move Portland ahead of the curve, and mobilize the "I but C" folks is to provide better protection for all of us. These lanes would be partitioned off from auto traffic, be wide enough for 3 or more bikes, like the dutch lanes, and also provide a means of turning left without leaving the safe confines of the the bike lane.
I'm sure many of you have visited the Netherlands, and seen the model. Especially if you've ventured out of Amsterdam into the rest of the nation, like Den Haag/ Leiden you have seen or experienced the beauty of a full scale bike-way (fietspad) system covering the entire country. Having experienced this firsthand I can tell you it is exactly why a majority of the Dutch make most trips by bike. They feel safe on their bikes.
I'd like to start an initiative based on this idea. I'd love to hear from anyone on this issue; pro or con....
Believe me I'm all about sharing the road, but part of sharing is giving. How about giving us a fietspad system.

I'm not sure it ever gets dark here...

2006-07-10T02:01:00.000-07:00

After slightly more than a week in our new apartment in the Hague we are slowly becoming accustomed to the long days this time of year. The first few days, just after the solstice mind you, there was somewhere around 18 hours of sunlight. No kidding. It took us a few days to realize that just cause it aint dark yet doesn't mean it aint 10:45 in the evening. The sun pops up bright and early around 5:15 or so. Just to be sure you are awake. The first week was a record heat wave with temps soaring close to 100 F. We quickly found some fans at a local store, and commenced to sitting directly in front of them.
Casey and I have met some of the local kids and we are playing soccer in the nearby park almost every evening. We faced down a couple of pretty tough looking 8 year olds last time. I did OK, until one of the kids kicked the ball point blank into my groin (we'll save that story for another time). That's when I retired to the adjacent cafe for some water.
Well, we are off to see the Hague's Rembrandt collection today and then our second Dutch Language lesson tomorrow. That is as long as I can avoid those 8 year olds at the park.
(I will post some pics of our apartment and neighborhood in the next installment)
Clark W. Griswold

The night train to Dortmund

2006-07-08T05:23:00.000-07:00

"Take the night train to Dortmund and I'll meet you at the station..."
If you have never done this please read the next words carefully. For Casey this was the most exciting part of the trip. A small compartment with 6 bunk beds and a narrow aisle in which to enter. He was in heaven. For Carolyn and myself it was a little less spectacular. I mean I'm a big guy, so if I wanted to take off my shoes for example, I practically had to stick my foot out the window and stand in the hallway to have enough space. But with little sleep and even less of an idea of where we were going to stay, we arrived in Dortmund around 6 AM. After a bleary eyed hour or so of milling around the train station we located a place with rooms, 40 minutes back in Dusseldorf. So we grabbed our bags, boarded a local commuter train and headed to our Hostel to sleep for a few hours. We awoke in plenty of time to make the game back in Dortmund, plenty of time that is if we had taken the right train. But we didn't. Long story short, a 40 minute train trip took about 2 hours. We made it to our seats maybe 2 minutes before the start. The game was awesome. Brazil vs. Ghana. Poor Ghana didn't stand much of chance, but they never gave up. Brazil's early goals secured the game quickly, but we still enjoyed every last minute of it.
More soon from The Hague...

New Gallery uploaded

2006-07-06T07:35:00.000-07:00

A few remaining pics from the last few days of our trip are posted here

Swiss lakes and Bavaria..

2006-07-06T05:42:00.000-07:00

In our last episode; our heros were heading north to the Swiss Lakes.
After 2 sun soaked days in Lugano, Switzerland walking the open air markets and floating on the lake, playing "street chess" and stuffing ourfaces we head north to Garmich Germany to absorb a bit of Bavarian Alpine culture. The day we arrived Germany had just beaten Sweden in the 2nd Round of the World Cup, in Munich. You would have thought they had won the Cup itself. The streets of this sleepy little Hamlet were packed with Teenagers, Tourists and Football freaks all waving the Germany flag and chanting "Wir fahren nach Berlin..." ( We're going to Berlin). The bus drivers rode around their routes honking their horns, Trains in and out of the station blew their whistles. It seemed that we were the only ones not going totally bonkers. So, "when in Rome..." or in this case Bavaria; we quickly bought a German flag and Casey sported it around as a cape until I had to insist he leave it in his backpack while went hiking the next day. A quick trip up the local Alpine Gondola gave us beautiful views into Austria and Lichtenstein and a nice hike down to a mid-mountain cafe where we rested long enough to make it back to the gondola stand for a return to our hostel. The next day we stopped in Munich for a walk around Marienplatz then boarded the night train to Dortmund.

NEW Gallery and post update

2006-07-01T07:18:00.000-07:00

I have added a new gallery of pics and also updated some of the previous posts with pics. I am working on more posts from the pasts week's adventure to Bavaria and a World Cup match with Brasil and Ghana.

2006-06-26T08:32:00.000-07:00

Cinque Terre, Italy
June 20, 2006

After 3 days in such a beautiful place it is hard to leave. Imagine 5 small villages chiseled into the side of a cliff above the Mediterranean Sea, linked together by centuries old trails traversing the mountains and steeply terraced vinyards that produce some of the best wine in the world. Perhaps you can begin to visulize Cinque Terre.
The five villages, Monterossa, Vernazza, Corniglia, Maranola and Riomaggiore each are crowned with a castle, hence the moniker "Terre", meaning land. We hiked the trails linking Riomaggiore to Vernazza, where we stayed, and it took almost all day. Arriving in the village of Vernazza without a room we were instantly set upon by Snra. Guiseppina, who offered us a two room apartment in her home that looked like an Italian fairy tale. It seems she does not advertise but rather trolls the train platform looking for acceptable guests. Our 2 day stay extended to 3 days due to a Train Italia workers strike, which gave us time for more swimming and hiking, and of course great food!
Thinking of the communities that have existed here for almost 1500 years, it is utterly amazing to think that such a place ever existed let alone still exists. Look for a gallery of these place later in the week when I get time to post it.
We are off to the Swiss lakes and then on to Bavaria from here...
Ciao!

2006-06-21T12:03:00.000-07:00

West Virgina Boy singing the Blues
I just got an email from my old buddy Matt Voth. Willamette Week put out an article about his latest endevour. Always great to see a hillbilly making good.
Way to go Matty!

2006-06-19T12:10:00.000-07:00

Writer'sNote:
I cannot link pictures at this point, as Italy almost exclusively forbids uploads at public internet points, so if you want to see what I am talking about, you must wait until I can re-link the past 5 or 6 posts, maybe in a few days
or check these links for the stuff up to June 17:
Gallery 1
Gallery 2

2006-06-19T12:03:00.000-07:00

Under the Tuscan Sky
Montepulciano, Itlay
June 19

After an unscheduled lay over in Bolognia, and an afternoon in Pisa to see the tower we have arrived at the most interesting point in our journey; Montepulciano. This 1300's era Tuscan hill town where cars are excluded built on a steep pitch with the streets about 10 feet wide. We are staying at a little pensione again. Imagine walking into a resturant from the Medici Empire and renting a small room upstairs for a few days. This area is renowned for White wine and Grappa, along with a strong cheese known as Pecarino. I don't know what I can say about this place except it seems that time has stood still for the past 7-800 years. The doorways and door knockers were so interesting I had to photograph several during our stay. Mere words cannot describe it. You just have to see the pictures and visit for your self.

2006-06-19T11:54:00.000-07:00

Vasto, Vasto, Vasto....
Vasto Di Mare
June 17 2006
For the past 3 days, we have been in Vasto. As I said in my last post we had quite an interesting arrival. We have been staying right on the beach at Pensione La Bitta. Its an old nondescript kinda building that looks like Mussolini may have used it for a bunker at one point. The hosts a great. They're an old Italian couple, Francesco and Anna Marie. They are the most gracious of the hosts so far. Every morning they bring us bowls of cherries and peaches along with crusty bread and coffee that you could stand a spoon in. Vasto is an interesting paradox. There is Vasto Di Mare, where we are staying, as the name suggests its at the sea and it's all about the beach. Gift shops, Gelati stands Umbrellas and Chairs for rent on the sand, and lots of sunbathers. Then there is Vasto city, an old circa 1300's fortified city on the hill about 3 km away from the beach. The city is full of twisty little allies and piazza after piazza, foritfied churches and the local Italian Communist party branch seems to have an strong marketing presence as well. A very nice town with a charming local flair.
More soon from the road

2006-06-15T08:35:00.000-07:00

Grazie Lorenzo!
Vasto Di Mare, Italia
June 13
Standing on the train platform, unsure of where to get on the train from Pescara to Vasto Di Mare, I approached the very large man with hands the size of hams and a jagged scar on the right side of his face.
" Mi scuzzi, come si arriva a treni por Vasto"?, I asked in my best Italian.
" A qui, questo treni a Vasto", he replied with a puzzled look on his face.
After a quick 30 minute ride down the coast we arrived in Vasto Di Mare, about 9:30. Maybe 30 minutes after the local buses stop running. Wandering around the front of the trainstation pondering what to do and where to go, we were approached by the same imposing looking gentleman.
" I have car, where you go?" he asked.
I told him the name of our destination and with a wave of his hand he grunted for us to follow him the to " car"
"Andiamo.."
Carolyn looked nervous, and rightly so this guy looked like an enforcer for the local syndicate, but he had "car" and we needed "ride".
After a quick phone call to the hotel for directions he whisked us away to our destination with a smile and handshake.
Grazie Lorenzo, we would have never made it with out you.

2006-06-15T08:21:00.000-07:00

Pizza Rustica and the wrong bus
June 13
Rome
We've all done it, especially if you've been someplace where you don't really speak the local vernacular. Your on the bus heading in what you think is the correct direction, when suddenly it hits you.... " I've gotten on the wrong bus..." No big deal just get off and go back from whence ye came.
Today we went to Stadio Olympico to see where the AS Roma play soccer. No problem. We walked around for a while. Watched some kids kicking around a soccer ball then boarded the bus back to the city center. Thats when it dawned on us.. we've gotten on the wrong bus. Fortunatley for us, we were in Rome. And as they say" when in Rome...." so we did just as the romans do, and probably have done for generations. We ate Pizza Rustica. These places are everywhere in Rome, and this wasn't our first time indulging over the past 3 days. Pizza Rustica is a square down home version of pizza usually sold by the kilo and served folded over into a sort of " pizza sandwich". If you know my little friend Casey then I don't have to tell you that this Pizza pitstop was the highlight of our unscheduled detour and maybe even the best thing we did all day.
Next time your in Rome, head out the door look in any general direction and I bet you'll see a pizza rustica shop. Go in, point, grunt, gesture wildly in the air, do what ever it takes, just get some. You'll be glad you did.

2006-06-12T00:26:00.000-07:00

June 12, 2006
Rome, Italy
The last 2 days we have taken a train from The Hague to Charleroi, Belgium and then a flight to Rome. Yesterday we toured St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican. Then to Piazza Navonna for VERY expensive coffee( can you say $ 6.00 per cup!?) and a walk around the city. Watch out! As enlightened as the Netherland is about pedestrian right of way, Rome is the exact opposite. Run, don' t walk across the street!
Our hotel is very nice although extremely expensive as is everything in Rome. Today we are off to the Old city and to Piazzi Popola ( plaza of the people) then of course a tour of Stadio Olympico, to see where AS Roma plays soccer.
More soon from the Griswolds.
Over and out...Clark

2006-06-09T11:40:00.000-07:00

June 9, 2006
In the past 3 days we have logged 12+ hours flying time, the thorough scrutiny of the Canadian Immigration Ministry, A dozen foreign languages, a slight digestive mishap in Frankfurt, football in the local square with total strangers, and chocolate icing for breakfast!. Now that we are here in the Hague in our tiny hotel, we have begun acclimate a bit. This morning Casey is sleeping in finally, The first 2 mornings he was awake at 3 am from the jet lag, no amount of pleading or coercing could coax him back to sleep. I think Ambien should consider the Pre-Teen sized dosage. As a result both Carolyn and I have been exhausted by 10 pm each night. Our days have been filled with tram rides, bike rides, counting SMART Cars and searching for the right words in Dutch. Today as with yesterday, we are looking for apartments, some are better than others. Yesterday we found a few nice ones and lot of crappy ones. Determined to find the right place; today Carolyn and I are splitting forces in order meet with 2 landlords at the same time.
The bicycle is the preferred mode of transport in the Netherlands. So much so it seems to be a way of life more than mere transport. Everyone is on their bike, from Granny with a basket going to market, to the business man in a three piece suit, to a punk rock chic listening to her iPod while having a smoke. All pedaling along at a pleasantly casual pace; and why not bicycles have the right of way over all other traffic. It helps that the Netherlands is flat as a pancake and the gas is very expensive, besides there is no place to park a car even if you could afford one. Now I know why the typical Dutch breakfast consists of bread, cheese and chocolate. You need alot of energy to pedal around all over town. Eat up! Really, I have to admire any culture who puts bicycling first and chocolate icing is a legitimate breakfast item.
More soon from the the Griswolds!
Clark, out.

2006-06-09T11:34:00.000-07:00

June 6, 2006
“Goede Morghen”, said the Netherlands bound Luftanhnsa flight attendant as I grogily stumbeld aboard the final connecting flight.
“ Is it morning?” I reply in a haze that only jet lag can generate. I really have no idea. For me it is about 11 pm. I have been awake since 4 am, and the past few days I have moving like the pit crew at the Indy 500.
Passport, check
Cell phone, check.
PlaneTickets, check
Hotel reservations, check
Train Tickets, check
Credit Cards, check
World Cup Tickets, check
Now where is that damn passport again?
Ok we just touched down in the Netherlands, Now we just need to find the right train to the Hague, figure out where to get off, and find our hotel. Sounds easy, I just hope I don’t fall asleep and wake up in Belgium!

2006-06-09T11:30:00.000-07:00

June 4, 2006
Packing for two weeks, loading the storage locker and remembering then later forgetting almost everything we need. We have made it to San Fransisco and we fly out tomorrow morning. Oh my God.... I really don’ t want to get up a 4 AM to make our 7 o’clock fight...
I don’t even want to fly! Well at least it will be over soon. It almost seems surreal. We have discussed the trip on various levels for over a year. I think deep down all of us thought that some how it wasn’t going to happen. Ok, maybe it was just me. either way, we’re doing it now!
Here we go!